Seasons Solid PrefinishedHardwood Flooring

Division of COMMONWEALTH PLYWOOD CO Ltd

Support & FAQ > Installation and Maintenance

Handling

Hardwood is a living substance which reacts to changes in relative humidity.
Wood gains and loses moisture before and after installation, as surrounding
conditions fluctuate. Wood expands in summer when the humidity level is high
and contracts in winter when the humidity level is much lower. To minimize
the expansion or contraction of your hardwood floor, it is recommended that
the building be well ventilated and relative humidity level maintained
between 30% and 50% at all times.

Wood is a natural product whose characteristics include minor color
variations, grain variations, knots and mineral streaks which are not
considered defects. Given that wood is a product of nature, the wood
flooring industry accepts a 5% margin for error in the flooring purchased.
This 5% margin includes both manufactured and natural imperfections. When
estimating the flooring required for a job the purchaser must bear in mind
the industry 5% margin as well as the loss due to cutting during the
installation.

Before you begin, plastering, painting and cement work must be completely dry
and the HVAC system must be installed and operating. Ensure the flooring is
delivered to the job site only after all construction work is completely dry
and relative humidity is between 30% and 50%. It is strongly recommended
that the wood be left to acclimatize at a temperature between 65 and 75
degrees Fahrenheit (18-24 degrees Celsius) for a period of at least 48 hours
at the required relative humidity level.

Preparation

For new construction or renovations:

Be sure to maintain occupancy-level temperature and humidity for at least five
days. The house must be heated to a temperature between 65 and 75 degrees F
(18-24 degrees C) and a relative humidity between 30% and 50%.

The recommended subfloor is 3/4" plywood over 16" (41cm) or less
joist spacing.

Using a moisture meter, verify the subfloor (plywood) and the flooring
moisture content (M.C.). For 2 1/4" width flooring the maximum
difference between subfloor and flooring is 4% M.C. for 3 1/4" and wider
flooring the maximum difference is 2% M.C. If the moisture content
difference is too high, do not proceed with the installation. Increase
heat, ventilation, dehumidification or humidification until the moisture
content difference is less than the maximum listed above.

Installers must measure, record and retain moisture readings of the room
(RH%), flooring (M.C.%) and subfloor (M.C.%) at the time of installation.
Failure to do so may void the warranty.

Remove baseboards and door sills.

Ensure plywood subfloor is flat; clean; dry; structurally sound; free of
squeaks and protruding fasteners. The subfloor must be flat to within
1/4" (6.4mm) over 10' (3m) or 3/16" (4.8mm) over 6' (1.8m).

Install a vapor barrier over the subfloor. The vapor barrier can be
asphalt laminated paper or asphalt-saturated kraft paper or #15 or #30
felt.

Using a handsaw, slit the bottom of the door frames 3/4" (2cm) in order
to slide a hardwood plank beneath the door frame.

Tools and material required

Hardwood floor nailer (with rubber mallet)

2" (5cm) 7d or 8d flooring nails

Electric drill, bits and floor screws

Tenon-saw, circular saw or handsaw

Claw hammer and nail punch

Measuring tape and pencil

Chalk line

Moisture meter

Before you begin, it is important to verify the working condition of the
hardwood nailer to prevent damage to the planks. The compressor should be set
to 75 P.S.I.

Step by step installation

Install only on or above grade. A basement installation will void the
warranty.

Using the chalk line, draw a parallel line, 3/4" (19mm) larger than the
plank width, from the wall. Example: 2 1/4+3/4"=3". This chalk line
should be at 90 degrees from the adjacent wall. It is very important to
start the planks square.

Inspect the flooring for defects/flaws prior to installation. Those with
defects/flaws must be recut or discarded. Once the boards have been nailed
down, they are deemed to have been accepted by the installer and/or the
owner.

Lay the planks out on the floor in the general pattern in which they will
be installed. The straightest planks should be used for the first and
second rows and the last two rows. Pull flooring planks alternating from at
least 2-3 different boxes. This will help in providing a more even
distribution of color and character. Please note that minor differences
between color amples and the color of the installed floors are normal and
are not considered to be defects.

The first two rows must be secured to the floor using screw shank flooring
nails, minimum two nails per strip/plank. For the first row, drill 2 holes
on the top surface of the planks at 1" (2.5cm) from the edges, then
continue at approximately 10"(25.4cm) to 12" (30.4cm) apart. Next,
secure using a claw hammer and a punch.

Lay out 7 or 8 rows of flooring end to end in a staggered pattern with end
joints at least 6" (15cm) apart. Find or cut pieces to fit within
1/2" (12.5mm) of the end wall. Watch your pattern for even distribution
of long and short pieces and avoid clusters of short boards.

Start the second row with a plank at least 6" (15.2cm) shorter or longer
than the plank used in the first row; this will avoid aligning the joints.
For the second row, drill a hole on the tongue edge at a 45 degree angle,
repeat every 8" (20.3cm) to 10" (25.4cm). Secure using screw shank
flooring nails.

The subsequent rows must be installed in the same manner, but using a
hardwood floor nailer. Try a few hammering tests on a piece of scrap wood
to determine the pressure needed to properly drive a nail. Never nail
closer than 3" (7.5 cm) from the end of the board/plank. Nail every
8" - 10" (20-25 cm) for 2 1/4" width flooring and every 6"-
8" (15-20 cm) for 3 1/4" and wider flooring. A minimum of 2 nails per
plank is required regardless of flooring width.

For best appearance, leave enough distance between joints by alternating
with planks of different lengths to avoid aligning joints.

The last four or five rows must be installed in the same manner as the
first two rows. The use of the hardwood nailer is impossble since the last
rows are too close to the wall.

Leave 3/4" (19mm) expansion space between the last row and the adjacent
wall.

Conceal the nail holes using a special wax

Finish trim is nailed only to the wall and never to the planks.

Maintenance ( prevention tips )

Although your prefinished hardwood floor offers high durability and easy
maintenance, it is not indestructible. In order to maintain and preserve
the beauty of your floor, the following are tips which should save you time
and worry:

Regularly sweep or vacuum the floor to prevent sand or abrasive dust from
accumulating and scratching the finish.

Use only products designed specifically for cleaning prefinished hardwood
floors

Place doormats outside and rugs inside at every entrance to prevent sand or
abrasive dust from accumulating

Place a mat in front of the dishwasher, the kitchen sink and other work
areas to protect the floor from water, spills and fallen objects

Use protectors under all narrow casters or replace them with wider rubber
casters. Avoid plastic casters

Protect the floor when moving heavy pieces of furniture. Carry them or
place them on a rug, wrong side up, and slide the rug. Refrigerators should
never be moved without adequate floor protection

Glue felt pads to the legs of furniture and chairs to avoid scratching the
flooring

Avoid wearing high-heeled shoes on hardwood floors

Protect wood surfaces from sunlight and other sources of bright artificial
light

The relative humidity level in your home must be maintained between 30% and
50% at all times. Problems related to humidity level variation can be
minimized by proper ventilation, dehumidifying/humidifying or heating. The
use of humidifier(s) and dehumidifier(s) will most likely be necessary to
maintain the required relative humidity level